Gelato in Florence (July 2004)

La Carraia

Just south of the Ponte alla Carraia. Since we'd had a huge lunch, we were just going to have gelato for dinner, so we ordered cups in the middle range, 4 euros each. This was, in fact, too much gelato for any of us. We'd read that their "cream" flavours were better than their fruit flavours. I had cioccolato and nocciola, both of which had a fine taste; N had nocciola and pistachio, and remarked on how good the latter was; A and Z had straciatella and nocciolosa (chocolate and hazelnut, which tasted a little too much like Nutella to me, though for the kids that was a plus). On a return visit, the kids were not impressed with the tiramisu or the mousse au chocolat, both of which seemed to be mostly whipped cream. Caffe was good, as was cioccolato d'arancia and malaga (rum raisin).

Neri

A small place on the via de Neri, which we first visited about nine in the evening, after dinner at home and an art exhibition in the early evening. The fruit flavours were supposed to be good here. I had a crunchy, intense lampone and a vivid-tasting mirtillo; Z had limone and menta; A had limone and mandarino; N had pesca and pompelmo. These were in "size number three", 2.30 euros. Everyone was impressed with their flavours.

Because of its location and its general standard of excellence, this became our gelateria of choice. A tried a coffee granita, which was more granular than the one at Carabe, and also had success with "cioccolato mexicano", which had pistacchio and peperoncino (cayenne pepper) in it. I liked their cioccolato d'arancia.

Carabe

Just south of the Accademia. The kids went for the coffee granita (A) and the almond (N); the latter was made with raw almonds imported from Sicily, so I couldn't have more than the smallest taste. Naomi had one made from raspberries, which she really liked. I decided to have gelato, caffe and nocciola, both of which were light, but not quite intense enough. On a subsequent visit, I was more impressed with the lemon and other fruit flavours.

Carrozza

Better than it should be in such a touristed location (just east of the Ponte Vecchio on the north side, just west of the Uffizi). The chocolate was intense, and the coffee flavour was "straciatella", with thin ribbons of chocolate broken up in it, quite nice. Half the flavours were "mousses", though, and the prices were high.

Vestri

A little to the east, near the Standa supermarket. An artisanal chocolate maker with a number of different types of chocolate gelato. Their cioccolato classico was fine; white chocolate with strawberries (Z's choice) was perhaps less successful.

Vivoli

The most famous gelateria in Florence, and as a consequence it is more touristed, with worse service and higher prices. Their riso flavour was the best I had, but the general consensus was that Neri, which is not that far away, was better for less money, and had a nicer atmosphere.