San Francisco Restaurants

This page is very much out of date. Updates coming soon (June 2013).

San Francisco is a great restaurant town. There are more restaurants per capita here than in any other city in the United States, offering a dizzying array of choices. You can eat bad or mediocre food at all price levels, but you can also find real treasures which will result in a permanent raising of your personal standards. Here are some of the places we've eaten at over the past several years, in no particular order. See also my page on restaurants in the East Bay.

Baraka
Part of the Potrero Hill empire that includes Chez Papa and Chez Maman. The food is Chez Papa gone Moroccan: small plates which pretty much all work quite well (fresh fava falafel; dates stuffed with chorizo, cabrales, and jamon serrano; fritture of fresh anchovies) and some slightly larger dishes (tagine of monkfish or rabbit; lamb kebab; sauteed dorade) which are also tasty. Some of the dishes are a bit precious -- $4 for a small dish of couscous about three inches in diameter and an inch high; $10 for three quarter-sized scallops "Catalan style". Service is variable and quarters cramped. They're not trying to be "authentic", but it feels a bit dislocating when thinking of the couscous platters we've had at North African places in Paris. Connecticut at 18th.
Saigon Sandwich
A visit to the Asian Art Museum finally gave me an excuse to try their banh mi. Good bread, very generous with the meat; I would have preferred a more complex spicy sauce instead of the sliced jalapenos. Dodgy-looking characters on the streets, but no more so than on Telegraph in Berkeley. I pity da fools who visit Cafe Asia instead of this place. But the banh mi joint in our little town has a friendlier proprietor, and the sandwiches are $2 CANADIAN! Larkin near Eddy in SF.
Burma Superstar
Complex salads mixed tableside; samusa soup is a delight, as are shan noodles. Curries are filling and inexpensive. Friendly service, and the place is clearly doing well. I think if I could wave a magic wand and live anywhere in the Bay Area, it would be just off Clement; the vitality and diversity of this neighbourhood is astonishing.
Lulu
Was good, then was bad, now is good again -- or so says everyone else. I've never eaten here before, frightened away by the thought of a place so large and loud that the cooks have to wear radio headsets to communicate with each other. Our server was trying to be Parker Posey and failing utterly at it. But the food was good, if a bit over the top: a double order of roast duck arrived piled intimidatingly high on a platter. Wild mushroom and heirloom tomato pizzas had a decent crust (not quite crisp enough for my taste, but not soggy) and well-balanced toppings; sand dabs a la plancha had terrific flavour, but were overcooked. Fritto misto of artichokes and lemon was well done, but I missed the tiny bursts of salt from the little anonymous Venetian fish. Desserts were surprisingly modest; I could finish my frozen nectarine mousse without exploding, and the coffee ice cream in my eight-year-old's profiteroles was heavy on the coffee flavour and light on cream and sugar. I could still hear the person across from me (and the jerks at the next table) when the bill came, but it was a relief to get out into the comparative calm of Folsom St. traffic. I don't know if I'd do it again (Azie next door is more interesting) but I enjoyed the evening.
Desiree
I learned about this little cafe in the Presidio from the new edition of Patricia Unterman's book. Not surprisingly, there were no tables at 1:30 (well, one person was taking up a four-person table, but she did arrive first), so we got box lunches. The kids opted for ham and cheese; we wanted goat cheese and grilled vegetables, but there was only one left, so I went for turkey salad. The family went off to scout for a spot to eat, and I watched them make the sandwiches; the others' press-toasted, mine made on fresh toast, the salads assembled and mixed individually by hand, four little bags of three cookies put into the communal bag with napkins and forks. The woman doing the assembling kept an aloof attitude with me, but addressed many of the other patrons by names; perhaps they were regulars from the SF Film Institute in the building, or other nearby organizations. I began to feel like I was intruding. The four lunches totalled forty-seven dollars and change. The family had found a couple of benches near a commemorative flagpole; the heat had broken, the wind was up, and the main thing I had to worry about was dripping mayonnaise and keeping individual mesclun leaves from blowing away. The family was impressed; I thought it was okay, maybe not worth twelve bucks. I might have thought more of it if I'd had it sitting at a table, sipping a beer, watching others take out their lunches. Maybe next time.
Isa
French-influenced small plates, changing seasonally. Young chef lives above restaurant, wife manages front room, someone looks after kid (after whom restaurant is named). On each of our visits, with many months in between, the chef recognized us and welcomed us back (even when we walked in without reservations). On top of that, the food is terrific. Modest and carefully-chosen wine menu. On Chestnut near Steiner.
Piperade
When this was Pastis, it was one of our unsung gems. But we don't mourn its loss, because the same chef (Gerard Hirigoyen of Fringale) has created a slightly more casual and definitely more Basque restaurant. From start to finish, our meal was a triumph, a mixture of traditional, reinterpreted, and newly-created dishes: "terrine" of slices of sheep's milk cheese and crisped serrano ham stacked into a rectangular prism and laid atop a bed of frisee; steamed Pacific snapper topped with caramelized slices of garlic and served atop spinach drizzled with olive oil; and an amazing walnut and sheep's milk cheese gratin for dessert, savoury and sweet at the same time. On Battery near Green, south of Levi Strauss Plaza.
B44
Former chef from Thirsty Bear (a former fave destinations near SFMOMA) opened a more upscale restaurant on al-fresco Belden Place (off Bush, near Kearny). Reservations only taken for parties of six or more; we were there at 11:30 for weekday lunch, and the place was full shortly after twelve. Some dishes, like fish cheeks, are familiar from TB; others are traditional but given new interpretations (esqueixada, salt cod salad, is finely shredded and highly seasoned). Arroz negre (here called paella negra) was better than the versions I had in Barcelona the week before. Out of several appetizers, three large mains, and five desserts, there was not a dud dish in the lot, and the young Hispanic servers were friendly and enthusiastic. Highly recommended.
Blowfish Sushi
Ground zero of dot-com territory, Bryant near 20th. (I wrote that in summer 2000, but after 9/11/01 and the dot-com crash, I'm just going to leave it as is.) Cool space, giant screens showing Japanese anime, trip-hop soundtrack, servers in black with piercings and tattoos. Packed out at weekday lunch; we got the last table for four. But: good sake selection, interesting set of rolls, clearly fresh fish, and some relative bargains on the non-sushi part of the menu. Worth a visit.
Delfina
Small space on the edge of the Valencia restaurant strip, rave reviews from upscale food mags in the window, well-heeled patrons waiting outside, full within seconds of opening. Prices are moderate, seasonal American food (minimally described) deftly executed. Great wine selection at low markups, and the most natural and unpretentious service we have had in several years (on two different occasions with two different servers, so it must be a policy). Highly recommended, but call well in advance (like a couple of weeks), and don't expect to seat a large party. 18th near Guerrero.
Charanga
Another in the endless stream of new and exciting Mission restaurants, this one is right on Mission, in a rather seedy block (though there's a large tended parking lot right next door). Barebones decor, plain wooden tables and chairs. South and Central American foods (or inspired by same) delivered tapas-style: ceviche, seared tuna with three sauces, patatas bravas. Sangria to drink and comforting desserts. Recommended. Mission at 16th.
We Be Sushi
Didn't expect much from the Valencia outpost of this small chain of low-rent sushi places, but it was Monday lunch, and we didn't have much choice. We were pleasantly surprised, though; the food was decent and inexpensive.
Tartine
Why should a pain au chocolat cost $2.50? Well, it's oozing with Scharffenberger chocolate, and it rivals (maybe outdoes) the best we've had in Paris. The almond croissant was similarly distinctive, though really filling. Bread is good, large, well-crusted, moist, though it surprisingly doesn't keep that well. I'm glad I live about three thousand miles from this place, or I'd be dead within a year. At 18th and Guerrero.
Chez Papa
Nice approximation of a Provencal bistro, down to the accents of the crew. Friendly service, very good food, but the place is small and gets noisy. Asparagus soup with truffle oil and marinated anchovies over mache and shaved fennel were seriously good, as were the smoky beans available as a side order. They cheat on the tarte Tatin, though, by using puff pastry. There's a cafe just down the street that looks like a great hangout. On Potrero Hill somewhere.
Azie
Originally aimed at the dot-com crowd, reinvented as a "sharing plates" kind of place. Asian fusion food in a seriously high-concept room. Really good, especially the heirloom tomato salad (done several different ways in a divided dish) and the steamed fish. The "pear tarte Tatin" wasn't really a tarte Tatin, but was spectacular nonetheless. They even had glasses of Templier rose for $8.75, not bad considering a half-bottle at Kermit Lynch cost $12.50 at the time. On Folsom near 4th.
Bay Breads Patisserie
We stopped in to try their macarons and canneles, which were not quite up to the best Parisian standards, but a good try. Next time we'll try their breads, which have a good reputation. On Pine near Fillmore.
Harbor Village
Credible dim sum in an unlikely location, beneath the Embarcadero office buildings. Can be erratic, though. Pleasant, upscale decor.
Thirsty Bear
Used to be our choice for lunch while visiting the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, when it served mainly Catalan-style tapas and beer brewed on the premises. But on our last visit, they had gone to a more standard appetizer-entree-dessert style, and the food was considerably worse. This one is not long for the world, and it's a shame. We had some great meals here once upon a time.
The Ramp
Outdoor waterfront setting is appropriate for the huge portions of fish, in sandwiches and on platters. Closed in winter. Near 16th Street and 3rd, east of Potrero Hill.
Yank Sing
Dim sum, but you order from a menu, special items on carts, attentive service. Tastefully decorated and with a decent space between tables. Was our choice for dim sum in the City, along with Ton Kiang, but recent visits to the Rincon Centre location have been disappointing.
Eos
An impressive wine list (not only bottles, but wines by the glass that you'd never get to try otherwise) and stunning fusion food from imaginations run riot. The plates are too pretty to eat, but force yourself. Take lots of money and be prepared to lip-read. On Cole near Carl.
Hama-ko
No sign. Tiny place. Husband cooks, wife serves. Give them carte blanche and they will serve you a series of stunning dishes, including some of the best sushi I have ever had. Reportedly closing soon due to retirement, go now. On Carl near Cole.
Thep Phanom
Opulent Thai tourist decor and extensive menu with cute dish names seem to indicate caution, but this place delivers: every dish tastes different, and they're all great. Our choice for Thai in the City (see also sister restaurant Phuping in East Bay). Waller at Fillmore, near the Haight.
Cafe Marimba
Reed Hearon's tribute to Oaxaca. Good salsas and tequila samplers, authentic moles, but portions are small, service is spotty, and the room is noisy. Good concept, poor execution. On Chestnut in the Marina district.
Slanted Door
Nouvelle Vietnamese. Airy room, good service, solid plates. In the midst of the blossoming restaurant district on Valencia, near 17th, just west of Mission. Go early, preferably at lunch. [Note: this restaurant has temporarily moved to 100 Brannan, near the Embarcadero, pending earthquake retrofits at their regular location; buzz says it's now overpriced, not as innovative.]
Rose Pistola
Read Hearon's tribute to Liguria. When we visited, the only way to drop in and get a table was at off-hours, like three in the afternoon. Great small plates, pizza, farinata, grilled seafood. Reports are that it's gone downhill as Hearon turns his attention to his next project. I appreciate the impulse to not get trapped, but one has responsibility to one's children. On Columbus in the heart of North Beach.
Tommaso's
The original wood-fired pizza, still going strong decades later. Kearny near Broadway. No reservations.
Cafe Kati
Cal-Asian fusion food; original architectural food concept has become muted, though the place seems to have a loyal clientele, and the owner/chef works the front room diligently. Sutter near Fillmore, north of Japantown.
Isuzu
Homey Japanese; comforting, solid food, in generous portions, and moderately priced. Worth a trip: our choice for all-around Japanese in the City. On Webster near Post, in the Japan Center.
Maki
Tiny place in the Japan Center just across from the Kinokuniya Bookstore, specializing in wappa meshi, steamed rice with garnishes. A bit pricey but worthwhile.
Sanppo
Basic, solid Japanese, just across from the Japan Center. I walked down here for lunch and had a generous portion of grilled eel, but it's hard to extrapolate to the rest of the menu from that. Post at Buchanan.
Patisserie Delanghe
An authentic French patisserie within sight of the Japan Center, at Fillmore and Bush. A bit pricey but don't hesitate: the croissants are fabulous.
Cordon Bleu
This wins the hole in the wall award hands down. Five stools, two tiny tables, one apartment-sized four-burner stove, and a menu which basically has four items: grilled chicken, rice with meat sauce, skewered beef, and imperial rolls. Dirt cheap and marvellous. On California near Polk.
Taiwan
In the middle of a very Chinese district on Clement, this is an old-fashioned Chinese restaurant from back when most places were serving fluorescent sauces and the places we loved held the cornstarch and the sugar. But nowadays it seems dated, which doesn't keep it from being packed to the gills, mostly with white folks. Good Shanghai dumplings.
Fringale
Book well ahead at Gerald Hingoyen's French bistro. Duck confit with lentils to die for. Tiny and perfect, just like in Paris, and reasonably priced. On Fourth Street near Bryant, east of the freeway.
Cha-Am
This Thai place at Third and Folsom held its quality long after its sister restaurant in Berkeley turned into a pale shadow of its former self. But they've been slipping on recent visits.
Marnee Thai
Very popular Thai place, but food is a bit sweet and a bit too muted in deference to Western palates. On Irving south of Golden Gate Park.
Ebisu
Possibly the best quality-to-price ratio on sushi we've seen in SF, but not as good as Kirala. Quite popular, so book ahead or arrive early. On Ninth near Irving.
PJ's Oyster Bed
Huge portions of seafood, Louisiana-style, but quality varies. Very popular, so arrive early. On Irving near Sixth.
Ton Kiang
Upscale dim sum carried around on trays by servers. After enjoying a few regular items I don't normally like, such as rice noodle rolls stuffed with barbecued pork (which are normally dull and bland), I concluded that I was mightily impressed, though quality has varied on recent visits. Neck and neck with Yank Sing in the dim sum department, and parking is easier. On Geary near 22nd.
Takara
There's a long and quite interesting list of appetizers on the dinner menu. Unfortunately, we went for lunch, and while the rather standard choices (tempura, chirashi sushi) were well-done, service was surly, and there wasn't enough to set this place apart from a number of choices in the immediate vicinity. Next time we go in the evening. In the Miyako Mall, Japantown.
Straits Cafe
This restaurant interprets Singapore as a sort of Asian crossroads to put together a vibrant palette of flavours. Pleasant high space, vaguely neocolonial decor, exotic cocktails. Recent meals not as terrific as they once were. On Geary near UCSF.
Luna Park
Large portions of eclectic comfort food served in a pleasant, funky setting. Good concept: the kind of place you want to hang out at. On Valencia near 18th.