Paris Restaurants

This is a list of some of the restaurants in Paris at which we ate during our visits in February 1992, September 1994, February 1996, November 1996, and July 1999; we can recommend all of these, though to varying degrees. These are in no particular order. We chose restaurants based on the recommendations in the books "Paris Bistros" (Robert and Barbara Hamburger, 1991), "Discovering Paris Bistros" (Gaston Wijnen, 1991), "Cheap Eats in Paris" (Sandra Gustafson, 1990), "Food Lover's Guide to Paris" (Patricia Wells, 1993/1999), as well as the Rough Guide to Paris. Don't take the prices too literally; they are from the time we ate there, which could be years ago.

Chartier (7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 9e)

Large and cheap. Food is basic; frills such as desserts and coffee tend to be very basic. But when you can get an endive salad for 10F, or a complete decent meal for two for 140FF, why quibble? Of course, there is a little too much English being spoken, since this place is listed in every guidebook.

Berthillon

Not a restaurant, but an ice-cream maker on the Ile St. Louis. The best ice cream in Paris, reportedly; certainly the best we had there, though they can't hold a candle to Vivoli in Florence.

Poilane (8 rue de Cherche-Midi, 6e)

An artisanal bread maker in a very bourgeois district. Solid and substantial loaves, advertised in better sandwich shoppes all over town.

The des Brumes (340 rue St.Jacques, 5e)

A nice tea-shop. Salads, quiches, baked goat cheeses, cider, and of course tea.

Restaurant du Luxembourg (44 rue d'Assas, 6e)

A neighbourhood bistro very close to the garden of the same name. Country salad with smoked duck 30F, grilled lamb chops 50F.

Thoumieux (79 rue St.Dominique, 7e)

An old-fashioned bistro with mirrors, globe lights, and rows of small tables. Nice mixed crowd. Fabulous duck specialties: rillettes de canard 35F, confit de canard 98F, cassoulet 90F. Have a bottle of Cahors with your meal. Recommended.

Polidor (41 rue Monsieur-le-Prince, 6e)

Another guidebook favourite. Get there early as it fills up fast every night. Better than Chartier (desserts and wine in particular) and about as cheap: kir 10F, andouillette 60F, raspberry tart 22F. Worthwhile.

Jardin des Pates (4 rue Lacepede, 5e)

Small place, serving homemade pasta made from different sorts of grains, each with its own special sauce -- smoked salmon and leeks, or duck and mushrooms. Main courses around 65F.

Perraudin (157 rue St.Jacques, 5e)

Comparable to Polidor, and also well worth a visit.

Aux Negotiants (27 rue Lambert, 18e)

A nice wine bistro; good rillettes. Daily lunch specials. Try the Jasnieres wine.

Le Petit Nicois (10 rue Amelie, 7e)

Bouillabaisse better than Nice, reportedly. I haven't been to Nice, but it was excellent. I had whelks and aioli to start and tarte tatin for dessert, all on the 145F menu. Highly recommended.

Jacques Melac (42 rue Leon-Frot, 11e)

A very nice wine bistro. Try one of the Auvergne cheese omelets (about 30F) or the assiette de bougnat (48F) with Auvergnat meat specialties. Worth going out of your way for.

Astier (44 rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud, 11e)

Our highest recommendation, consistent over the years. An incredible 140F menu -- no other option, but several choices of appetizer, main course, and dessert. Oh, and a cheese course which is fantastic -- a platter with fifteen to twenty-five different perfectly ripened cheeses from which you select as much as you can handle. Worth organizing your whole week around. Really. Go and eat at this place. At lunch you can skip the cheese course for 115F, even more of a bargain.

Chez L'Ami Jean (27 rue Malar, 7e)

A rough and convivial Basque restaurant. Good if you are in the area, but if you haven't been to Thoumieux or Le Petit Nicois, they are only five minutes away. The creme caramel is excellent here.

Au Pied de Fouet (rue Babylone)

A tiny place, with a half-dozen tables plus a couple in a loft, and a short hand-written menu. Modestly priced and tasty lunch. Arrive early; no reservations.

Au Trappiste

A Belgian brasserie just south of Les Halles, with a good selection of beer on tap and great moules frites.

Au Gourmet de L'Isle

On the main W-E street in Ile St. Louis. Somewhat touristy but with a decent 120F menu, including a nice andouilette.

Le Buisson Ardent

Across the Seine by the Institute du Monde Arabe and turn left. A bit too much English spoken, but a great confit de canard and tarte tatin. 130F menu.

Baracane Bistro de l'Oulette

Small bistro on Rue des Tournelles in the Marais (4e), former location of L'Oulette, which has moved out to the 12e. Good menus at around 130F with limited choice, wines by the carafe; menu at 215F gets you appetizer, main course, and dessert from the full carte, plus an aperitif and half-litre of wine. Food is excellent, from the south-west of France. A bit touristy in the summer.

Le Zygotissoire

rue Charonne, 12e. An offshoot of the popular bistro Les Zygomates, near the Bois de Vincennes. This one is a small space with a tiny rotisserie-powered kitchen upstairs. An amazing 80F menu, three courses with three choices each. A la carte is also reasonable, 40F starters and desserts, 80-100F mains. Rotisserie does not mean just roasted, food is sauced and presented nicely. Get there early for lunch, and definitely book in the evening; it's a gentrifying neighbourhood and rue Charonne has lots of nightlife.

Alleosse

rue Poncelet, 16e. Not a restaurant, but the best cheese shop in Paris; they own their own caves d'affinage, great selection of chevre, and raw milk versions of lots of classic cheeses. They pack for travel if you ask.

Bouillon Racine

rue Racine, 5e. Belgian brasserie, 179F menu evenings and weekend lunches; they have cheaper menus at weekday lunch but I don't know about them. Stunning Art Deco interior, inventive bistro food, many dishes cooked or marinated in various beers, and artisanal Belgian beers on tap or in bottles. Very conveniently located in the Quartier Latin. A real find.

Eric Frechon

rue de General Brunet, 19e. 200F menu, no a la carte. Quiet residential neighbourhood. Service a bit "correct" but dishes are quite creative; the young chef worked with Christian Constant, a "name" chef. A chance to taste upscale Parisian cooking at a reasonable price. You should reserve, though weekday lunch might be workable for one or two.

L'Oulette

place Lachaumbeaudie, 12e. Southwestern food (southwestern France, that is) with modern updates; limited menu de marche at 98F, another at about 180F with some more options, but we ended up ordering a la carte, starters about 90F, mains about 120F, desserts 55F. Quite creative; bold, assertive flavours. A little more upscale than I was comfortable with (businessmen at other tables, wine and water was kept off table and poured by server) but food made up for it. Desserts are worth it.

Le Nemrod

Corner of rue de Cherche-Midi and rue des Sevres, 6e. Popular local cafe in upscale neighbourhood. Good salads and wines, half-dozen hot dishes a day, plus Auvergnat specialties on menu. Brisk, efficient, quintessential Paris cafe experience. About 60-80F for main course.

Rendez-Vous de les Quais

Bassin de la Villette, 20e. Nice location on water, built into new cinema, wines selected by Claude Chabrol. Bistro food updated for a clientele who need to eat fast and get to a movie, though most of the people here aren't doing that. Fills up fast at lunch. Allow 80-100F.

Cafe de la Musique

Parc de la Villette, 20e. The place to eat when going to the science or music museums. Also somewhat of a place to be seen. Comfortable plats for about 100F, croque monsieur or pasta for less.

Le Temps des Cerises

rue de Butte-aux-Cailles, 13e. Worker's co-op restaurant in working-class neighbourhood, great cafe atmosphere, socialist posters, and good food. Menus at 118F (copious) and 78F (still hefty-sized). Grilled fish, andouilette, charcuterie.

Lao-Thai

rue Tolbiac, 13e. Credible Thai food, nice local atmosphere.

Lao-Siam

rue de Belleville, 19e. Slightly more upscale than above, food about the same. Interesting neighbourhood.